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Getting To South Africa
Knysna
Franschhoek
Cape Town
Zulu Nyala Tented Camp
Zulu Nyala Nyati
Johannesburg
Zambia - Victoria Falls
Botswana - Chitabe Trails
Botswana - Vumbura Plains
Namibia - Sossusvlei
Kruger National Park
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Getting There
Tom's comments are in regular
type, Mel's are in Italics
It was in April of 2005 that Mel and I attended The Beggar's
Banquet, a fund raising auction for Nativity House, a drop-in facility for
homeless people in Tacoma. One of the items in the live auction was a six day
photo safari in South Africa. We put in a few bids, but then dropped out.
Surprisingly, the auctioneer stopped the bidding well short of the specified
value. Then he asked who else wanted to go at that price. A number of bid cards
went up and ours was one of them. We had two years to take the trip. We decided
that if we were going that far we were going to stay as long as practical and
see as much as possible. So we started contacting travel agents, looking for one
who could help organize time in other areas of southern Africa. We finally
located one in Pennsylvania and he was very knowledgeable and helpful. As we
were planning we learned that the sister-in-law of a long-time friend lived
about 450 km east of Cape Town. Mel suggested that Margaret and Jay Quigley
go with us and they agreed.
The resulting plan had us flying to Cape Town and then driving to
Jay's sister's home in Knysna. We would stay three nights with Charlotte and
Dennis, then drive to Franschhoek in the wine country near Cape Town for two
nights. From there we would go back to Cape Town for two more nights before
flying back to Johannesburg and driving to Zulu Nyala for the photographic
safari. Following those six days we would drive back to Johannesburg so Margaret
and Jay could return home (they are still working). We would stay on for almost
another three weeks, traveling to Livingstone, Zambia to see Victoria Falls.
From there we would go to Botswana and stay in two different reserves before
continuing to Windhoek, Namibia. We would spend two more nights in another
reserve, return to Windhoek and then to Johannesburg, Finally we would drive to
Kruger National Park for three nights, then back to Johannesburg for our flight
home.
We spent almost two years planning and preparing for the trip and
were satisfied that we were as ready as possible. As departure date drew near we
became more excited and read and watched videos to learn as much as we could
about our destination. We knew we would not sleep much on the night before
departure, and we didn't.
Thursday, March 8 - Seattle to Washington D.C. and on to
South Africa
The alarm rousted us at 3:00 AM. We had almost an hour to grab a
quick snack and cup of coffee, shower and dress before Margaret and Jay arrived.
We got it all done and were waiting when they pulled in the driveway. We got to
the park-and-ride a bit early, but soon enough our bus arrived. It was not the
usual 574. This one was more like a coach - comfortable seats but narrow aisles
and difficult to get your luggage in and out. It was a very quick ride to SeaTac
and we were soon checked in and on our way to security. We went in what seemed
to be a logical direction based on signage, and found ourselves in a short line.
It was for the first class and frequent flyer passengers, but was not
sign-posted. So we went through, got scanned, put our shoes back on, and
proceeded to our gate. We were away a few minutes early and had a smooth flight
to D.C., although leg room was at a premium.
Once in D.C. we deplaned and made our way to the shuttle that
took us from the D concourse to the B concourse. We got checked in at the South
African Airways gate (our luggage had been checked through) and were soon on
board another shuttle that took us to the airplane. Apparently SAA does not get
gate privileges. We joked about driving to South Africa with some of the other
passengers. The shuttle took us to our Airbus 350 (we had flown from Seattle to
D.C. on a 767-300) and we boarded and settled into our seats. There was more
room than on the United flight from Seattle. Soon we were on our way for a 15
hour flight to Johannesburg. SAA provided courtesy packs with socks, etc. and
came through with complimentary wine and other beverages. Dinner followed
quickly and was quite good. We had chicken in a sauce with penne pasta, carrots
and pea pods. There was a potato salad with bay shrimp and a cheesecake sort of
dessert.
We were very impressed with South African Airways. The cabin and
restrooms were clean, the crew was very polite and personable - all-in-all a
very fine operation. Still, it was a very long flight. We kept ourselves
occupied for a while, but then tried to get some sleep. We dozed off and on and
eventually got to Johannesburg. The landing was as impressive as the rest of the
flight had been. Processing through immigrations and customs was smooth and
efficient. As we looked for domestic departures, we were approached by a porter
who took control of the baggage cart and took us directly to check-in for our
Cape Town flight. That was another good flight with another surprisingly nice
meal. We collected our luggage and went to the Budget office. The car turned out
to be a new Honda Accord, so I was already familiar with all the controls, and
it was an automatic, so Jay wouldn't have to deal with right-hand drive stick
shift.
Our Accord
We found our way out of the airport and directly onto the N2 headed
for Cape Town. When we got into town we found that the streets are not always
signposted, or at least not where our eyes were trained to look. We only made
one wrong turn on our way to the hotel, and found it easily. At first, there was
no response when we rang the bell and we thought we were in the wrong place. But
then the door was answered and we were shown to our very nice rooms. They were
well equipped and comfortable and we got a good night's sleep.
When we had been trying to find a place to stay the first
night in Cape Town it seemed that all the hotels that we contacted were booked.
Eventually Tom found a website that was an agency for a number of hotels and
self-catering places - we booked at the Primi Oxford House, a self catering
apartment in a very good location called Green Point. Although the advertised
price was about R1050, the price they charged was R1250. When I inquired about
the discrepancy, I was simply told 'R1250 is the price.' After we arrived we
learned that we had managed to book the same weekend as 40,000 bicyclists had
descended on Cape Town - there were very few rooms at all available, so I guess
we were lucky to find one at all. Our apartment was very clean, very modern -
lots of pale beiges, stainless steel and granite. It was quite lovely and the
bed was heavenly.
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