San Pedro de Atacama
Wednesday - March 2
We had set both of our
cell phones to function as alarm clocks to wake us up at 4 AM for our 4:30 AM
pick up to get us to the airport. We also requested a wakeup call from the front
desk for 4 AM. I woke up and reached for my cell phone to open it and see what
time it was and before I could turn it on it made alarm clock noises at me. What
timing! We got up and got tidied up and dressed and went downstairs. Our pick up
arrived right on time at 4:30 AM. It was about a half hour ride to the airport
and we got there and got checked in on LAN Chile for our flight to Calama.
Once in Calama, we
collected our luggage and went to the Europcar counter. We got our rental car
checked out and hit the road for San Pedro de Atacama. It would be about a 1 1/2
hour drive. I had programmed my nav app to take us directly to where it thought
our hotel was located. San Pedro de Atacama is mostly dirt streets. We learned
later that the Mayor keeps it that way purposely.
One of the dirt streets
As we wound our way through
town trying to follow the nav app instructions, I turned on to another small
street. Before I had gone one block a nice policeman motioned me over and in
Spanish, of course, attempted to explain to me that this was a pedestrian street
and that I was not allowed to drive on it. I tried to explain to him what I was
trying to find and he simply motioned where I had to go to get off of this
pedestrian street. We made a couple of loops and in the process we spotted a
Europcar lot. We pulled in and asked directions from the man at the desk. He got
out a map and showed us on the map how to get to our hotel. A few minutes later
we pulled into our hotel's parking lot.
Although it was before
check in time, they were able to get us into our room. We were both very tired
having awakened so early, so we took a power nap. Mel found a good restaurant
for lunch on TripAdvisor, and we looked on the accompanying map to see how to
find the restaurant. We walked into town and never did see the restaurant we
were attempting to find. I am convinced that any map that shows you the location
of a specific place in San Pedro de Atacama, is going to be off by at least a
few blocks. We spotted another restaurant that appeared to have a number of
customers, so we went in and had lunch. It was not great but it was decent.
The house numbers in San
Pedro de Atacama are random, at best, so finding a specific place is dicey. They
may be 17, 19, 4, 22 and 8 right in a row. We never could make sense of them.
Given the small size of the town, you’d think we’d be able to find everything
quickly, but it took us the full four days to figure out where things were.
We had decided to have
dinner in the hotel restaurant, and it was very good. However, the portions were
enormous. Neither of us was able to finish our meal. Despite our earlier nap, we
got a good night’s sleep.
Thursday - March 3
After breakfast at the
hotel, we were picked up at 9 AM for a tour of two archaeological sites. The
guide on this particular tour was not that good, his English was somewhat
limited and he was difficult to understand.
An early habitat
The foundations of an early habitat
An Atacama peak
I stitched together some Atacama
scenery
When we returned to town after the
tour, we had the driver drop us off in town. We had lunch at a local pizzeria,
then walked back to our hotel. As it was a nice hot
day, we decided to go for a swim in the hotel pool. Little did we know that the
hotel pool's water was very cold . The most we were able to get into the pool
was our feet up to about the ankles. We concluded that, although the days were
pleasantly warm, the overnight temperatures dropped a lot and cooled the pool to
the point that it didn’t stand a chance of warming up during the day.
We again had dinner in
the hotel restaurant.
Friday - March 4
This was a free day for
us so we decided to try several things in terms of local sites. We had read
about a hot spring and saw a sign on one of the tour agencies in town that
indicated that there were tours that they took to this hot spring. We concluded
from that that it was probably open, although we had had conflicting information
on that score. We drove out to the Hot Spring and had no difficulty finding it.
Much of the drive was on dirt roads but most of them were not too bad. When we
got there we found that it was indeed closed and locked up.
The road to the spa, including the spot
we had to ford (rental car - who cares) and a sign for dangerous curves
Our next destination was
a lake where they have pelicans. The road out to that lake was much worse than
the one to the Hot Springs.
The salt flats are very rough crystal
clumps that are gathered to form the edge of the dirt road
The ever present peaks - beautiful
We did indeed see pelicans and took photos of some
of them, including two of them that were just gliding in for a landing. We
didn't realize that the tour we had scheduled for the following day was going to
take us to the same lake.
The plumage is beautiful but the bird
is not
The little bird is a sandpiper and
there are many of them
It was really
interesting to watch the flamingos feed (there are three species and you are
supposed to be able to tell them apart by feeding habit, beaks and leg colors).
We wondered ‘where did the salt water come from’ and ‘where did the shrimp come
from’. The shrimp that they feed on are tiny (there is a display in the visitor
center with an aquarium with some of the tiny guys swimming around). We were at
least 100 miles from the Pacific, but here is all this salt water, right in the
midst of the driest place on earth.
We next drove to another
lake that is reportedly so salty that people bob around it like corks. Again the
road to that lake was terrible, and when we got there we found that they wanted
a ridiculously large price just to go bob around in the lake. We decided to not
do that and instead returned to town and to our hotel.
That evening we walked
back into town and had dinner at a restaurant that had very good reviews. The
food was okay, but nothing spectacular.
Saturday - March 5
After breakfast in the
hotel, we went into town and found our way to the plaza near the church. We went
in and took a look at the church. It has very interesting architecture and much
of the wood used in the ceiling is from the cactus. When you look at it, it has
a number of holes in it. You would not think that it would be very structurally
sound, but apparently it is. The church is the second oldest church in Chile and
was built during the Spanish Colonial Period (17th Century).
The church is quite interesting
The cactus wood ceiling
We had a cup of coffee
at a restaurant on the plaza and just watched people go by for a while, then we
walked to a museum that is dedicated to meteorites. That museum is really very
well done and very interesting. After visiting the museum we walked back to our
hotel.
We had another tour
scheduled for this afternoon, and there had been some confusion about our pickup
time. We were finally able to get that resolved and were picked up at 3 PM by
Carlos and his driver, Alejandro. They took us first to the village of Toconao,
where we were able to see the church and do a little souvenir shopping.
On the way to Toconao we stopped to
look at some very vicious thorn trees and their seed pods
The top of the bell tower and the tower
door in cactus wood
From
there we continued to the lake with the pelicans. We next went to the salt
flats, and then on to a place in the salt flats where there are two small
circular lakes. One of them is set up so that people use it for swimming and
there were a large number of people there doing so. We have no idea how cold the
was. Carlos and Alejandro had set up sundowners and we had a snack before they
took us back to our hotel.
The Eyes of the Salt Flats
Some folks get a running start and jump
in
Here is a link to a
video of the Eyes of the Salt Flats (Ojos del Salar):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMlifqOigUs
It had been a long day
and we were rather tired, so we had dinner in the hotel restaurant. We had an
early wake up the next morning for our drive back to Calama and our flight back
to Santiago. |