Getting There
Vienna
Salzburg
Interlaken
Geneva
Stresa
Levanto and Orta
Colle di val d'Elsa
Sorrento |
Vienna and our concert in Stephansdom
July 18, 2002 –
Thursday – Vienna
Breakfast is included with
our room. It is the best breakfast buffet we have ever had – Continental,
English, American and Asian selections. After breakfast we stroll to a konditori and buy some mineral water, then to a market to buy some wine. I had
forgotten that you need to provide your own shopping bags in Europe. I cannot
remember the German word for bag, but I still remember the Danish word (‘posser’).
The day starts out with a
bus tour of Vienna. I don’t remember being so impressed by the architecture in
previous visits, but this trip I am enthralled with the beautiful buildings –
they are varied and interesting. We have a brief stop at the Belvedere, a
country palace overlooking the city, and then we have a one-hour tour of
Schonbrunn.
Garden and view from the
Belvedere Palace – old Vienna in the background, rear view of the
Belvedere, front of the Belvedere
Tom and I had been here in
1998, so we remember a lot of it. After the tour, we stay on the bus that takes
us to the center of Vienna and drops us in front of the Opera House. We find
one of Rick Steves’ recommendations for lunch – a little sandwich place somewhat
removed from the tourist track. The sandwiches are open-face sandwiches that
are presented beautifully. You point to the ones you want – three make a nice
lunch, then order your drink from the cashier. Lunch for two comes to €6.42.
After lunch we stroll to
Stephansdom, where our first performance is to be held. Facing the platz is a
sign advertising our concert. In the front of the cathedral is a booth for
ticket sales. I think it is finally hitting us – we are going to sing in one of
the most prestigious venues in Europe!
Banner in front of Stephansdom, Vienna – can this really be happening to us?
And a poster for our concert
Tom and I walk around the
cathedral a bit, then stroll around the town a bit more. We stop at the Italian
Tourist Office, located near the Opera House – we practice our Italian a bit
with the man who helps us getting maps and brochures. He is from Mercogliano!
He is in raptures that Tom’s nonna was from the same town.
The
architecture in Vienna is wonderful – these two buildings are examples
F or dinner we stop at a
small restaurant (Under the Three Axes) and have our obligatory schnitzel.
Yum. Then we meet up with the rest of the choir at Stephansdom for our
rehearsal. It is a bit stressful. The organ is sharp and it is a challenge to
tune the instruments. Added to that, we have to position the risers and move
some chairs, which cuts into our rehearsal time – we only have two hours total.
July 19, 2002 – Friday
– Vienna
After breakfast we take the
underground to the city center. We decide to visit the museum of music. The
first couple of floors are about the physics of sound, which I don’t fully
understand. However the upper floors have a great exhibition of lives of Haydn,
Mozart, Beethoven, Schubert and Mahler. The fun part is a virtual conductor –
we don’t have the opportunity to try it, but enjoy watching a couple of children
try – they select a piece from about six choices, then stand in front of a video
of the Vienna Philharmonic and try to conduct it. If they are conducting well,
they can get through the entire piece. If they are conducting too fast or
erratically, the orchestra responds accordingly, until the Concert Master gets
up and walks out in disgust.
We stop for lunch again at
the sandwich shop, then head back to the hotel. We take a nap, and then
practice our music. We have a bowl of soup at the restaurant across the street,
and then change into our performance dress for the bus ride to the cathedral.
Earlier in the day a crew
of people have gone to the cathedral to set up, so the instruments are tuned and
ready to go. The organ is not sharp – probably because it isn’t as humid as the
day before. We warm up in the Sacristy – which is covered in scaffolding and
plastic. Richard reminds us that in this same building, Haydn had been a
choirboy, Mozart had conducted some of his works and Beethoven had worshipped.
It is amazing that we have made it here and are being allowed to sing in such a
place. Richard also tells us that only six performances a year occur in this
venue. This puts a bit of pressure on us!
Interior, Stephansdom, Vienna – here Haydn was a choirboy, Mozart conducted his
concerti and Beethoven worshipped. The idea of a choir from Tacoma, Washington,
singing here is incredible. What a wonderful blessing.
The performance is nearly
flawless – the rehearsal had been very stressful and we were all nervous that
things wouldn’t go well. However, we rise to the occasion, inspired no doubt by
the wonderful acoustics of this Gothic Cathedral. Our fortissimos rise and
reverberate throughout the building; our pianissimos can be heard as a whisper.
The soloists, even if they are nervous, do splendidly. Richard’s Mass is
received very well. Our encore, Elijah Rock, is a big hit. It is hot in the
cathedral, especially in performance dress, but the discomfort is minimized by
the joy of the experience. I’ve never seen Richard so happy as when he is
conducting his Mass – clearly we are meeting his expectations and it is
something of which he is very proud.
The trip back to the hotel
is a chance for us to relieve the tension – we are so happy to have done so well
and to have shown some of the most discriminating audiences in the world what we
are made of.
After we get back to the
hotel, we change, then several of us (Heather Sewell and her mother, Marjeanne
Stone, Suzanne Montgomery (our organist), Lori Olsen, Angie Alexander and the
Nances) go to a small Italian restaurant near the hotel – it isn’t a fancy
place, but the owner is delighted to have us – he doesn’t speak much English, so
we try our Italian on him – the waitress only speaks German, so there are some
challenges communicating with her. I have ‘carciofini’ – artichokes, prosciutto
and cheese in a béchamel sauce. It is very good, but also very rich. Tom has a
pizza – very thin crust, which I believe is more authentic. The owner gives us
a sample of grappa Italian liquor. I’m not sure if it is because we are
Americans or because we tried to speak Italian. Anyway, it is an insurance
policy for a good night’s sleep!
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