A Cross-Country Driving Trip in Our Morgan
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The Hendersons The Blue Ridge Parkway and Skyline Drive |
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A Cross-Country Driving Trip in Our Morgan |
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Monday, June 26 - Cherokee, NC to Boone, NC on the Parkway We took one look at the breakfast offerings at the Comfort Suites and decided to pass. Packing completed, we loaded the Mog and drove just down the road to a restaurant for breakfast. Then it was onto the Blue Ridge Parkway. The Parkway is similar to the Natchez Trace in that it is a two lane road with no commercial traffic, a National Park and the speed limit is rather low. There the similarities end. Where the Trace is relatively flat and much of the vegetation is evergreen trees, the Parkway is mountainous and much of the vegetation is deciduous trees and rhododendrons and azaleas. It was raining when we left Cherokee, so we had the hood and side screens on. Still, the Parkway is a beautiful drive. I was most fascinated by the wild flowers - wild rhodies in abundance, but the flowers are lighter in color than ours, azaleas that remind me of the Exbury (deciduous) azaleas in our garden (these are orange - we have additionally white and yellow), mountain laurel - incredibly delicate, honeysuckle (this must be hummingbird heaven) and some beautiful yellow bell shaped flowers that I didn't know. We pulled off the parkway at Asheville to see the Biltmore Estate, built by George Vanderbilt. While the grounds were very impressive, so was the price - it would have been $45 each for a self-guided audio tour. Since we have visited stately homes in England, Scotland, France and Germany, we gave it a pass. We were particularly shocked at the price considering that this is a private estate, still owned by the descendants of Vanderbilt, who can't be too strapped for cash. Instead, we opted for the Folk Art Center located on the Blue Ridge Parkway. We are so glad we did. In this building are displayed (and sold) handmade items typical of the crafts of the Appalachians. There are hand blown glass ornaments, quilts, pewter, and the things we loved - hand tied corn brooms, many shapes and sizes and with handles from all sorts of types of wood. They are wonderful. We bought one to have shipped home. There are a lot of traditions that go with the broom - for example, put the broom on your threshold on New Year's Day to keep out evil spirits, and be sure to keep a clean house, because good spirits won't come into a dirty one. The one I liked the best was to put your broom behind the chair of a guest you want to leave. Not all that subtle! We continued up the Parkway and gradually the weather improved. The views, while still draped with clouds, were stunning - the mountains go on and on, as far as the eye can see, with little or no evidence of anything other than the beautiful trees and shrubs - no roads, buildings, water towers in sight.
We knew we needed to turn off at Blowing Rock and Boone for our lodging, which was at a resort called Yonahlossee. Unfortunately, Antonella didn't know the place and we drove over hill and dale looking for it. Just when we were ready to give up, there it was - little cabins (we found ours to be quite luxurious) built into the steep hills. Somehow, they've managed to carve out tennis courts and other recreational facilities, but the whole resort is built on a very steep hillside, so just getting out the driveway is a challenge. We had dinner at the Gamekeeper, the restaurant across the street from the resort. And what a meal it was! We saw the cheese appetizer on the menu and decided that would make a fine dessert (we love cheese, fruit and biscuits for dessert), so we passed on all the 'starters' and ordered entrees. Tom had a concoction of buffalo flank steak and fried crawfish with some lovely steak fries to set it off. I had a vegetable plate that could easily turn me into a vegetarian - lovely organic vegetables, including carrots, snow peas, sweet potatoes, potatoes Dauphinoise, a rice cake and (surprise) a cake made of grits with some great herbs seasoning it. Neither of us could tackle the cheese plate, so that will be our lunch tomorrow as we spend more time exploring the wonderful Blue Ridge Parkway, Tuesday, June 27 - Near Boone, NC on the Blue Ridge Parkway The Blue Ridge Parkway is said to be the most beloved drive in the United States. While it is difficult to appreciate the Parkway when it is raining and the views are obscured by clouds, once those clouds clear and the sky takes on a brilliant blue hue, you can truly appreciate the wonder of this place. We didn't get onto the Parkway until after noon, the morning being cloudy and the laundry that we couldn't do in Cherokee taking our attention. However, by early afternoon, the skies cleared and we were in for a delightful day. Our first stop was Grandfather Mountain, a rather strange place, truth be told. It is a large facility - home to the largest Scottish Highland Games in the world (second weekend in July). Beyond that, it is the site of the oldest rocks in the world and a unique ecosystem. Natural inhabitants are bear, deer, cougar, eagle and otters. There are many miles of hiking trails, plus an interesting visitor center with a good, albeit, small display of the flora and fauna of the area. There are several displays with bear, deer, a bald eagle and a golden eagle (neither can fly, they have both been injured by gunshot) and some endearing otters.
We left Grandfather Mountain and headed north along the Parkway. We stopped at a roadside stand where a man was selling homemade preserves, cider and CDs. His picked up his 1927 banjo and strummed a bit for us. We love Bluegrass music, so we bought one of his CDs.
Our next stop was the Moses Cone plantation, now owned by the National Parks Service. It is a beautiful old home, surrounded by miles of trails. Inside, there are people demonstrating crafts, not unlike the exhibit we saw yesterday. I took a picture of a woman who was making corn husk dolls - she was taking a break from her dolls and strumming her banjo.
When we were in Cherokee we struck up a conversation with two British couples from Birmingham who were touring the area. Imagine our surprise when we bumped into them again today in the parking lot of the plantation! They have a nephew in Lexington, Kentucky, and they are driving around this part of the country, stopping as the whim hits them. Who knows, we may see them again before our days on the Parkway are ended. We exited the Parkway near Blowing Rock and drove through the little town - it is quite charming (more so than Boone, which has taken on the homogenized feel of so many small American communities). We went to Boone for dinner and had a 'pretty good' Italian meal. We came back to our little cabin in the woods and sat on the little verandah, listening to the birds, frogs and cicadas. What a cacophony! I much prefer this to the noise of motorcycles and air-conditioners. This is a lovely place (even if the roads up the mountains are truly dreadful - thankfully, the road surface on the Parkway is generally excellent). Wednesday, June 28 - Boone, NC to Peaks of Otter We awoke to a beautiful day and 'burbled' up the wonderful Blue Ridge Parkway - the drive wasn't all that long, and there were great places to stop along the way. Our first stop was a display of various types of fences from the pioneer days of this area. Some were erected because they were cheaper or easier, others because they were more effective.
We then drove on the Mabry Mill - an old gristmill - we had lunch there - but the best part was talking to people while waiting for lunch. We had an enjoyable conversation with a couple from Florida, on their way to a wedding in Pennsylvania. Like so many people, they are just waiting for retirement when they can travel. Mabry Mill is quite delightful - the little restaurant, of course, but the grounds with old buildings from the era when this was a bit of a village. We had a wonderful chat with the resident blacksmith, who is also a Scot descendent and attends the Highland Games at Grandfather Mountain.
Just after lunch we heard the ominous sound of thunder - we hopped in Moggie and Tom drove like crazy to outrace the storm. Largely, he was successful - we arrived at the Peaks of Otter and got checked in before the skies opened - as a matter of fact. we had enough time to take a stroll around the little lake. After dinner, we strolled back to our room - the deer were just coming out. It was peaceful and beautiful.
About 9 pm we heard a knock at our door - our friend, Douglas Hallawell, from Paris had just arrived - he was cold (having been caught in the worst of the storm with his 'roommate', Ron) and tired and hungry (and the restaurant was closed!). We gave him a bit of wine (and Ron as well as Lance and Connie Lipscomb, all in the same boat - cold, wet and hungry). Well, we did the best we could with a little wine and granola, but beyond that, we weren't very helpful. Tom and I turned in, looking forward to more miles on the Parkway. Thursday, June 29 - Peaks of Otter to Lyndhurst, VA The drive to Lyndhurst was generally leisurely. We made a detour to Appomattox Courthouse, where Lee surrendered the Army of Virginia to General Grant. It is another National Park and is very well done - the buildings have been restored, they have a film explaining the last battle in this area and there are two talks that one can attend - we did one, and were so pleased! The person giving the talk was supposed to be a Union soldier from Pennsylvania, after Lee's surrender. He took on the appearance and speech pattern of someone from the mid 1860s. Out mission was to address him as if we were in the same time period - who ever heard of Seattle then? Not this lad! It was fascinating!
Our visit to this site over, we drove the short distance to Iris B & B, near Lyndhurst. We were so pleased - what a beautiful facility and setting. We first noticed the luna moths hanging around the door - they are so pretty.
Bags stowed, we headed off to the home of Thomas Jefferson, third President of this country, and author of the Declaration of Independence. What a beautiful site, so filled with history and with the personality of this incredible man. I have often wondered why there are pockets of history when there emerge people who are incredible in their vision and talent - certainly during the reign of Elizabeth I, then later in America during our Revolution, then in the era of Victoria (both in the UK and in the US). It is one of the many aspects of history that I find fascinating,
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